World According to Khemra, Part 2

I've been thinking about Mr. Khemra, my Siem Reap tour guide. My account of our day together below seems ... somehow incomplete. As much as I try, I find it difficult to avoid my reductionist tendencies. Hence, I give you my follow up, imaginary conversation with Khemra. This is the conversation we would have had, if I spent a second day with him, if he could express himself fully in his self-taught English, and if I were not so hungover the day after and had the energy to spend a second night out with the worldly ex monk.

Khemra, how are you feeling today? Aren't you tired after our bender?

Yeah very good, I sleep only a few hours a night anyway during the high season. All customers want to see sunset at Pre Rup or Phnom Bakeng temples, so I get home around 10 p.m., then I study English until midnight, then I wake up at 3:30 a.m. because all customers want to see sunrise at Angkor Wat. So I am fine, feel good today, only sleep a few hours.

Yesterday, you told me everything about yourself, and took me to see your master, your grandmother and your best friend who is now the associate head monk at Angkor Wat. Why did you do that, for a complete stranger?

Maybe you find it strange, but I grow up in temple, not many chances to make friends aside from orphans and monks, I don't know any other way to make friends. I do this with people I meet, sometimes they call me the next day and say "Khemra, I cannot be friends with you, you come from bad family and poor family". Sometimes they become my friends.

Khemra, don't you have any ... misgivings about getting drunk and chasing girls, as an ex holy man, a spiritual man?

I'm not a monk anymore, I want to enjoy life. There are 33 levels toward heaven and 33 levels toward hell. What I do in this life simply determines where I come out in the next life.

Perhaps my Buddha is more forgiving than your God. Perhaps my Buddha better understands human frailties, that it is not easy to abandon the flesh and forsake the wants of the flesh, and that there is nothing inherently bad about getting drunk or chasing girls, it is more a matter of what consequences these acts have on the journey toward nirvana. If I do not lead a good life, then the consequence is simple, that my karmic wheel continues to spin, but I have maybe 33 or 65 or even an infinite number of more chances (if I can put up with the suffering of all that is entailed). You on the other hand have no margin for error -- your God seems wanton and cruel, he doesn't even allow for the sampling error of one short lifetime!

And I am an honest person. My master tells me honesty is the most important thing. Am I a bad person because I get drunk? I do not understand why (very occasional) drunkenness is worse than lying. I do not understand why giving in to the wants of the flesh is somehow worse than deceiving another man.

That's very interesting, what you say about actions as having consequences vs. having a value attached such as "good" or "bad". I wonder if that's why your country or other Buddhist countries like Thailand are so ... non-judgmental, so live-and-let-live?

"Live-and-let-live", you mean "live-and-let-die", the Guns N Roses song? Yeah very good, rock n roll!

Umm, ok, you said yesterday that your friend stayed in the temple to become a monk, because he is uneducated and cannot survive outside of the temple. But what about the spiritual component, that he must also want to pursue a spiritual life?

Yes it is true, my friend will spend his life helping orphans. He already set up one orphanage. He wants to help kids like us, poor and desperate, without any other means to survive. But you cannot deny the practical. My best friend is illiterate and is blind in one eye, he has no skills to get a job, if he did not have the temple he would be a beggar and starve.

In practical terms, you can look at our temple as your orphanage and nursing home and hospice equivalent. The villagers give temples food and drink, and pay money to the monks for funerals. The temple in turn takes in the orphans and the ill and the old and the feeble. The temple is our village safety net. It is not so different from the role of medieval monasteries in your world.

Ok, so what's on the schedule for today my friend?

We eat amok fish and lok lak beef and drink beer. Yeah very good!

Ppl

I took a lot of photos on my Cambodia trip. But I found myself getting bored with temple pics, sunrise pics, sunset pics, river pics, tree growing on temple ruins pics, stone Buddha pics, etc etc. I find that taking pics of people is much more enjoyable. On my last day in Siem Reap, I pedaled a hotel-rented bike down some dirt roads a couple of hours outside of town, and ran into a bunch of schoolkids, sleeping kids, construction workers, vendors, guys playing volleyball on dirt, roadside barbers and monks. What fun! Especially compared to waiting for 2 hours for the only 20 minutes of the day for the right sunset (and screwing up the pic, as usual for me).

World According to Khemra

I spent my Chinese New Year vacation in Siem Reap, Cambodia, to see Angkor Wat. It was, as usual, a last minute decision with the consequences being last minute high prices and last minute convoluted itinerary: I had to fly from Shanghai to Shenzhen to Kuala Lumpur, with an overnight 5-hour layover at the LCC Terminal (with me sleeping on a bench outside, waking up with mosquito bites up and down my arms), and then finally to Siem Reap. It was the same on the way back, but I spent the night in Kuala Lumpur and managed to eat about 4 meals in 12 hours, mostly at the Jalan Alor hawker street.

In Siem Reap, I did the usual temple stuff: the Grand Circuit and the Petit Circuit, 2 sunrises at Angkor Wat and a sunset at Phnom Bakeng temple. I did most of the temple visits on my own, but went on the Petit Circuit (basically Bayon, Banteay Srey, Angkor Wat) with a tour guide, because I wanted to get explanations of the history of the temples and the temple carvings.

My tour guide was Mr. Khemra, a 20-something ex Angkor Wat monk, ex laundry boy, ex casino cashier and ex Angkor Wat ticket controller. He wasn’t much of a tour guide. I think he learned his tour guide shpiel from Lonely Planet. And he has an achievement oriented approach to temple-ing -- see temple, climb temple, next temple. I would have enjoyed it more on my own.

But Khemra was a fascinating guy to spend a day with. The following, in Q&A format for your easy reading, is a rough transcription of my 12 hours with Khemra:

You were a monk at the Angkor Wat monastery? How did that happen?

I was orphan, my father killed by Khmer Rouge, my mother got married again when I was 7 years old, we are very poor so she sent me to live in the temple. My grandmother was already a nun at the temple because she was old and no-one to take care of her. So I went to the temple with a letter from my mother, my master asked me a few questions, and I stayed for 15 years!

Why did you leave? Was your master angry with you?

I wanted to see the world outside of the temple. You know some people become monks because they cannot survive outside of the temple, they are orphans and uneducated and come from a background like mine, and temple life is all they know. I want to experience more, I think I have the ability to survive outside the temple.

My master was not angry. When I told him the reason he encouraged me to leave. I still see my master almost everyday.

What did you do after you left the temple?

First, I went to live with my aunt in Siem Reap. I worked as a laundry boy at a hotel. Then I worked as a cashier in a casino near the Cambodia-Thailand border, after that I was a ticket controller at Angkor Wat. When my English improved, I got my tour guide license.

I only make US$200 a month, this only allows me to pay $40 a month for a room, pay my grandmother’s debt to the bank that she took out to pay for my tour guide license, some English books, and maybe 1 or 2 nights a month when I go out for fun. [Ed.: more on these nights out for fun, later…] I always worry about my future. I have no education, I learned everything from monks at the temple, and studied English on my own. I go to English school only when I save enough money. I want to get better at English, and go abroad, and find a European girlfriend!

Do you like being a tour guide?

Yeah very good, I like meeting people from all over the world. What do I think of the people I meet? --

Japanese: very good girls, many Japanese girls like Cambodian guys, yeah very good.

Thai: very very bad people, they think Angkor Wat belongs to them, if Prime Minister says go to war with Thailand, I join the army tomorrow!

Korean: bad people, no respect, always talk talk very loud in temple.

Chinese: very good to make money, every store in Siem Reap owned by Chinese people. Chinese girls, yeah very good, skin like white jade!

Europeans: yeah very good, I want to find European girlfriend! Oh I cannot stand Scottish customers, they talk so strange, last time I got Scottish customers I had to tell them to shut up at lunch time, I have to meditate at lunch time or else my head explode.

It’s only 4:30 p.m., how did we finish so fast?

Temples are the same, except maybe Banteay Srey because they make it from pink stone. All other ones, same thing, built by King Javayaman or one of his sons, either Hindu or Buddhist, sometimes both, no-ones knows exact story, you can read Lonely Planet, I buy for you for $7, $7 is Cambodian price but $20 for foreigners, I can buy for you for $7, yeah very good!

I take you to hotel, you take shower, I pick you up and we drink beer ok?

Do you tell your master about your life?

Of course, I tell my master everything, he tells me to enjoy life. My master only tells me to be honest, that’s most important. When I tell him about beer and pubs, he laughs.